Category Archives: Contributing Writers

Interview – Chef Mourad Lahlou


Interview conducted & written by contributing writer Helena McMurdo


Photo courtesy of Deborah Jones

Mourad Lahlou is the Chef behind San Francisco’s Aziza, where his cuisine marries the traditions of Morocco with the fresh local ingredients of the Bay Area and the advanced culinary techniques employed by only the most modern of chefs.

Virtually self-taught, he learned to cook “accidentally” while at university, trying to recreate the dishes of his childhood Morocco and longing for a connection to home. Eventually abandoning his studies to open a restaurant with the support of friends and his former professors, his restaurant became a success almost overnight and took him from economics major to major chef. Today, he is known as the Chef behind the innovative cuisine at Aziza and has a Michelin Star to boot!

I spent an hour with Mourad recently when he stopped in Vancouver on a whirlwind trip to our beautiful city to talk about his first book; Mourad: New Moroccan. Nostalgic and passionate, he shared childhood memories of his upbringing and the place that food holds in his culture. Inquisitive and curious by nature, he also spoke about his somewhat trial-and-error process and new techniques he’s employing in his kitchen. It was a pretty inspiring conversation and I ran home to start my preserved lemons so I’d be ready to start cooking! I left feeling that even I could learn to hand-roll couscous and with a wonderful reminder of the very important role that food plays in all our lives.

CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL INTERVIEW

Bread – back to basics


Written by contributing writer Jacqueline Twa

As we sailed slowly into the small harbour, I noticed someone on the hillside making their way down the steep slope. This person had a giant load of what I guess you could call brush on their back; a huge pile of gnarly twigs and small pieces of assorted types of wood. It was quite a load – the person looked almost bent over double with the large pile on their back.

Finally we got the sailboat docked and made our way slowly up to the restaurant, hoping they had ice to fill the glasses of our desperately needed gin and tonics. As we were quick to learn, ice is a commodity in these small harbours in southern Turkey.

We were part of a group of 12 nearest and dearest who had sailed from Greece through the islands into the South Western area and the small ports of Mediterranean Turkey. Small rocky ports with magical names like Datcha and Bodrum and Maramis, the area they call the Turquoise Coast where the Aegean and Mediterranean meet and mingle.

Paradise.

TO CONTINUE READING “BREAD – BACK TO BASICS” PLEASE CLICK HERE

COOKBOOK REVIEW Fabulous Brownies

By  Annie Rigg

Fabulous Brownies is available for purchase through our online store or at local book stores. For more information on this cookbook please visit Thomas Allen & Sons Ltd.

 


Cookbook review written & photographed by contributing writer Anuradha Sharma

When it comes to brownies I know most people like to stick with their tried-and-tested recipes, which are usually quick and tailored to their own palette. Their idea of experimenting is trying a different nut or substituting spices. I know this for a fact because I used to be that person.

But people change. Nowadays I rarely go back to the same recipe twice! And as for brownies, I say life’s too short to stay in the comfort zone. Experiment. That’s my new mantra when it comes to food. So now that you are aware of my enlightened approach to cooking, it should put into perspective my excitement when CookThatBook asked me to review a cookbook dedicated entirely to brownies.

As you flip through Annie Rigg’s Fabulous Brownies (published by Ryland Peters $15.95 USD), you will come across a few cute ideas that can take your basic brownies to the next level. But my happiness was short lived because there are only 27 recipes. Honestly, I was expecting more.

I had to pick three recipes to test for the review and I wanted to make sure there was a variety of different brownies; something for everyone. A simple Salted Caramel Brownie to keep you warm on a rainy day, luscious Gingerbread Brownies for some late night indulgence, and delectable Cupcake Brownies which are perfect for not sharing.

Now you should know that when it comes to brownies, there are three things that I absolutely need to have present:

1. A cracked top

2. A gooey core

3. Easy to bake

Overall while I did like the book, there were some issues. The photography by Laura Edwards is good but from a design perspective I found not enough importance was given to the layout of the recipes. Personally, I think cookbooks must have a clean design with a decently sized, readable font. This book falls short on both counts. And even though the recipes themselves provide great inspiration for experimenting with new and exciting brownie flavours, I was disappointed in the limited number of recipes.

The instructions are fairly simple but the author provides no tips for serving suggestions or storage. Sure, there is one short line included in the introduction that tells you the brownies should last 4-5 days at room temperature but this is not a universal rule. For instance, I think the brownies with ganache would be better stored in the fridge or at least kept in a cool place.  A variety of flavors and combinations would have taken this book to the next level.

There were definitely some nice decorative ideas, such as the Brown(ie) Owls which are absolutely adorable and the Whopper Brownies which would be a surefire hit with the kids. There’s no denying this book contains lots of inspiring ideas guaranteed to expand your typical brownie repertoire. I just wish there were more.

In conclusion, everyone loves brownies. They are the ultimate rich, gooey and pure indulgent treat. With three recipes down, I’ll be surely trying more and eating my way through this book one brownie at a time while adding to my brownie repertoire. But is it the ultimate brownie book I’ve been waiting for? Not quite.

CLICK HERE FOR RESULTS FROM RECIPE TESTS

Meet Contributing Writer Anuradha Sharma

Baker Street is the alter-ego of Anuradha, a woman who works all day as a television producer, takes care of her husband and dog, has no culinary background, and is still inspired to experiment and bake. She is also the creator of Muffin Monday, a weekly fun filled initiative for food bloggers.

We are all excited to have An join our team! As CookThatBook’s newest contributing writer, she will be dedicated to reviewing dessert specific cookbooks so check back often for some sweet reviews!

Visit Anuradha’s blog Baker Street 

You can also follow her on Twitter and Facebook

Christmas Cookbook Giveaways!

Bet that got your attention, didn’t it?! Who doesn’t love free cookbooks, and as a special gift in time for the holidays our CookThatBook team will be giving away a copy of A Field Baker’s Guide to Christmas Cookies by Dede Wilson & Gourmet Gifts by Dinah Corley to two lucky readers. The books come courtesy of our friends at Thomas Allen & Sons Ltd., the oldest family-owned and operated agency publisher in Canada. You can find out more about them by visiting their website.

The draw will be made on December 16th so hurry – the big day is approaching fast and we want to make sure these books go to good homes! To enter your name for a chance to win either A Field Baker’s Guide to Christmas Cookies or Gourmet Gifts, please leave a comment below telling us about your favourite holiday cookie. Don’t forget to include which book you’d prefer to receive.

Want additional chances to win? ‘Like’ us on Facebook and/or retweet the following on Twitter: Just entered to win FREE xmas cookbooks via @cookthatbook http://bit.ly/sAYEvK

In continuation of the spirit of giving, a number of our fantastic CookThatBook contributors have submitted a holiday recipe for you to try. Be sure to check out the tasty Christmas treats being whipped up in their kitchens!

Ashley Astells – Eggnog Cookies

Jacqueline Twa - Chinese Peanut Butter Cookies 

Anuradha Sharma - Cream Cheese Chocolate Chip Cookies

Helena McMurdo - Whipped Shortbread Cookies

Aimée White – Mexican Wedding Cakes

Stay-At-Home-Chef – Chocolate Mint Cookies

Kendall Harris – Dessert Wine Pairing

Happy Holidays!
from everyone at CookThatBook

COOKBOOK REVIEW A World of Cake

By Krystina Castella

A World of Cake is available for purchase through our online store or at local book stores. For more information on this cookbook please visit Storey Publishing.

 


Cookbook review written and photographed by contributing writer Helena McMurdo

Krystina Castella, an art college professor, was inspired to begin work on A World of Cake following a bake sale she helped organize on her college campus. She asked her students to bring various cakes to sell and was surprised by the array of baked goods that her international students brought to the table. She became aware of just how narrow her definition of cake was and thought it would be an interesting project to explore this further. The result? A World of Cake.

Published by Storey Publishing, LLC($24.95 USD), this book is a 320+ page comprehensive look at cakes from around the world. It explores the subject matter through recipes, along with the various traditions and history that surround cake.


Some of the interesting and helpful features of this book include:

The world tour of cake holidays – in this introductory section, the author lists cakes under months of the year and pairs them with well-known and some lesser-known holidays. This is a great feature to inspire you if you are unsure of what to make or if you just need an excuse to bake a cake. Why not consider a French Opera Gateau for Bastille Day? Or perhaps some Zeppole for the Feast of St Gennaro?

The author lists traditional cakes for specific holidays, as well as other cakes whose suggested serving occasions are a bit more of a stretch. For example; I’m not exactly sure what Scottish Dundee Guinness Cake has to do with Super Bowl Sunday but I suppose any excuse for cake is a good one!

An international tour of cakes – the book is organized into geographic regions with several cakes being selected from each region and identified by their country of origin.  If when you think of cakes you think of France, Germany, Austria you will indeed find some of the well-known and famous cakes from these countries. I was much less familiar with the cakes of a host of countries from Asia and Africa, and some of the techniques used like steaming and frying. Most of all, I enjoyed the thoughtful excerpts at the top of each recipe that provided a better understanding of the traditions associated with each cake. There are also informative pages called ‘World Tours’ that focus on individual themes. For example; Christmas Cakes or Street Cakes which look at the traditions from various countries within that genre.

Layout and directions – for the most part I like the organization, layout and directions of the book. The recipes are well typeset with subheadings for cake, icing, filling, as well as preparation and assembly. Because many of the recipes have several steps, I found this to be a helpful feature. One thing I would have liked to see called out separately was the pan type. I often found myself digging through a recipe to find out what pan to use. The book also contains helpful sections about general baking and cake making tips, which as an infrequent baker, I found helpful as a reference.  Occasionally I found the specific details of the process to be lacking but for the most part the instructions were clear.

If you love to bake and are looking for new inspiration, this is the book for you. I was amazed by the sheer multitude of cakes, many of which were entirely new to me. But I was also very happy to find familiar favourites for which I had been lacking recipes.

CLICK HERE FOR RESULTS FROM RECIPE TESTS

COOKBOOK REVIEW Spilling the Beans

By Julie Van Rosendaal & Sue Duncan  


Spilling the Beans is available for purchase through our online store or at local book stores. For more information on this cookbook please visit Whitecap Books

 


Cookbook review written and photographed by contributing writer Helena McMurdo

When it comes to beans; I have good intentions. I have them in my kitchen but I might as well confess that mostly they serve to make my glass storage jars look good. Yes, I know that beans are good for you – which is why I have them in the first place – in the hopes that I’ll make something with them someday and become a better person. It’s not like I don’t enjoy them when fed to me but given the choice between a chicken breast and some lentils (technically a pulse) and barley (a grain) I’d go for the chicken breast every time. Part of this stems from the fact that I know what to do with a chicken.

Thankfully there’s a new cookbook on the scene to help ease me out of my bean rut. With Spilling the Beans, authors Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan have succeeded in making even a reluctant bean eater like me change my tune. This book provides a host of simple recipes that make it easy and enticing to cook with beans and answers the fundamental question of “what on earth do I do with these things?”

Julie Van Rosendaal is a resident of Calgary (AB) and the food correspondent for The Calgary Eye Opener on CBC Radio One, co-host of TV’s Just Food and the food editor for Parents Canada magazine. Many readers will know her from her award-winning food blog; dinnerwithjulie.com. Already an accomplished author, her previous titles include Grazing, Starting Out and One Smart Cookie. For her latest release Julie has teamed up with her good friend Sue Duncan, who lives in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. You can learn more about Julie and Sue in the recent interview conducted by our very own Stay-At-Home-Chef (click here for full interview).

Although titled Spilling the Beans, this is really a book about beans AND grains. Julie and Sue explain that beans and grains work well together as a protein source because beans contain the amino acids that grains lack and vice versa. Beans are high in fibre, low in fat and full of nutrients. These benefits, along with those of whole grains, are discussed more fully in a small section authored by Julie’s father who happens to be a gastroenterologist. This is all well and good – but what will the recipes be like? Will I want to eat any of this stuff?!

Flipping through the book, I was pleased to see that there are lots of recipes that caught my eye right off the bat – from Savoury Hand Pies with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Olives and Lentils to scrumptious sounding snacks like Roasted Chickpeas & Pecans with Bacon & Maple Syrup. Even Black Eyed Pea and Kale Soup sounded great to me – yep I was feeling myself get healthier just by turning the pages.

The book contains a useful introduction that covers the various types of beans and bean definitions, legumes, pulse etc. as well as information on grains and how to cook them. The rest of the book is organized into chapters for various meal types. In addition to what you might expect (salads, soups, one-dish meals), there are also less expected sections including those for breakfast, sandwiches and even an extensive section on baking with beans. Did you know that you can make bread with beans? Or how about some waffles?

I see the recipes as falling into three broad categories – those that feature beans (i.e. with other ingredients), those that contain hidden beans and those where beans are the stars. I have mixed feelings about the hidden bean dishes. While I don’t believe in the ‘hide the vegetables from your kids’ school of thought, admittedly I don’t have kids and have never spent any time pleading with a six year-old to eat their broccoli. I can see how ‘hidden beans’ help add nutrition in areas we might not ordinarily see it. My preference would be to eat the dishes where beans are the star and where they are allowed to shine. Lucky for me, there are lots of those recipes in this book.

The recipes are simple and easy to understand and prefaced with summaries or anecdotes which bring a personal touch to this book. The authors encourage modification, a feature I always appreciate in a cookbook, and provide solid bases from which to work. Dishes have many different flavour profiles including those found in Indian, Mexican, French and Italian cuisine. And don’t think that because this book talks about beans as a source of protein that it means that it excludes meat dishes. Slow Cooked Lamb Shanks with Lentils & Barley, Pulled Pork & Beans and Roasted Sausages with Braised Lentils are just some of the heartier examples. There is plenty here for vegetarian and carnivore alike.

I think this is the type of book that you could cook from every week and always have something new and delicious to try.  The meals are simple, easy to prepare and surprise, surprise – they taste great.  This book is a great way to turn good intentions into real meals.

  CLICK HERE FOR RESULTS FROM RECIPE TESTS

REVIEW Canadian Living: The International Collection

By Canadian Living Test Kitchen


Cookbook review written by contributing writer Aimée White

Canadian Living: The International Collection is available for purchase through our online store or at local bookstores

For additional information on this book please visit Random House Inc. 


Canadian Living
 has come out with a brilliant new cookbook, titled The International Collection: Home-Cooked Meals From Around the World (published by Random House Inc., $27.95 CDN). Its premise is a beautiful one. In the opening pages, Canadian Living’s Food Director, Annabelle Waugh, explains how a multicultural team of first and second generation Canadians assembled the contents of this cookbook in the Canadian Living Test Kitchen. Not intentionally, but simply because they represent a microcosm of present-day Canada: a rich array of cultures, ethnicities, and traditions. In Waugh’s words, “Canadian cooking has been largely built upon a foundation of recipes that were brought to this country by immigrants… [their] cooking styles have become integral parts of the beautiful mosaic that makes up Canada’s culinary culture.”

The goal of this cookbook is to introduce a rich array of home cooked, international dishes into Canadian kitchens but without going broke at speciality food stores in the process. The idea is to make foreign dishes accessible and attainable, and that’s definitely a goal I can stand behind. There is just so much to explore in international food culture, and Canadians can benefit greatly from the traditions and recipes that new (and not so new) Canadian families bring with them.

As you can see by the yellow sticky notes in my first recipe test, there are countless recipes in this book I’m dying to try! Canadian Living provides a wide variety of recipes that represent every region of the world. One element of the book that really stood out to me was on the very last page:  12 regionally inspired or country-specific menus drawn from the recipes in the book. These meal plans are great inspiration for people who may not have dabbled much in international cuisine, or if you just don’t have enough energy or time to think about putting together a plan of your own at the end of the day. And let’s be honest, that can happen!

Unfortunately there were also a few minor things I didn’t like about this cookbook, including the fact that I didn’t love the overall layout of the recipes. Several of the recipes I looked at worked in reverse order of the ingredient list when explaining the method. The method was also written in paragraph form in the middle of the page, with ingredients on the outer margin. At times it made for recipes that didn’t read smoothly or feel intuitive. There were also many occasions when I wished the recipes included details on preparation time. I walked through many of the recipes in my head in order to get an estimate on time, and on more than one occasion I guessed wrong.

That being said, in terms of the general content and layout I really liked the fact that they made two mains sections: the first being for every day mains, the second category being for entertaining. A nice distinction, because there really is a difference is most cases.

At the end of the day, once I got past the layout of the recipes I saw that they were well-written and informative. Each one I tested met with great success, which is a credit to both the recipe writers and the editors. I would thus highly recommend buying this book. It is diverse enough to challenge even the most adventurous cook, while still being accessible enough for a newcomer to international cuisine. It’s an excellent collection of recipes and a cookbook with heart; a winning combination if you ask me.

For a sample recipe from this cookbook, please click here

 

 

CLICK HERE FOR RESULTS FROM RECIPE TESTS

She Said; She Said

Written by contributing writer Jacqueline Twa and Stay-At-Home-Chef


JACQUELINE TWA: I have to admit that I am a food television junkie.

I love to watch it any time…anywhere. In fact, I once told my editor that I thought watching the Food Network was like watching soft porn. She quoted me on that comment without naming me – now I am outing myself.

As part of my addiction to food television, I became deeply immersed in the MasterChef show this past summer. I love the idea that someone who does not cook professionally can compete in this arena!

Confession? I often fantasize about standing in that studio sweating it out to win some fabulous prize and to raise my brow at Gordon Ramsey’s comments. The brow raise? Practiced daily. I also have to admit that I have a secret (well not so secret now I guess) crush on Joe Bastianichbut the skinny Joe; not the Elvis version.

In my fantasies no detail is too small when it comes to envisioning each challenge and how I would prepare every dish. Of course in my mind I win each challenge with my flamboyant culinary skills, and not only do I look slim and youthful in every shot but Gordon keeps telling me over and over how I am ‘da bomb’. However, all fantasies came to a screeching halt during the one episode challengers were asked to create a soufflé.

Although I had a basic idea of how to make a soufflé, I had actually never made one. Oh the shame. The gourmet gauntlet had been thrown down and I had no choice; I would have to master the soufflé.

Now I have many friends that I consider to be great cooks – I like to mentally categorize them as my “Foodie Friends”. One of my dearest foodie buddies, is none other than my editor Jasmine (Stay-At-Home-Chef). Jasmine and I share a passion for food and a passion for our families. She is my touch stone on all things food. Spending time with her is always filled with fun and laughter! I have to keep reminding myself that she is over 15 years my junior. It just feels like she has been in my life as a trusted girlfriend forever.

Back to soufflés.

I called Jasmine up and asked if she had ever made a soufflé before.

Dramatic pause.

The answer? Nope! So with our heads hung low in foodie shame, we agreed to get together and conquer the art of making a soufflé.

The day we cooked together in Jasmine’s warm and inviting kitchen with her gorgeous daughters running about was magic. There is something about peering through the window of the oven – wondering if our soufflés would rise and meet our expectations – that reminded me of Christmas morning as a kid.

In short? Our soufflés were an unqualified success. Now keep in mind that our little guinea pigs were 5 and 3 years of age! Leave it to a food blogger to not only have her kids eating soufflés at such a tender age but to give us decent feedback!

So, the final step in my imaginary quest for food supremacy was done and another item checked off my bucket list – or ramekin list in this case!

Next up, I compete in my imaginary triathlon without breaking a sweat!

 


STAY-AT-HOME-CHEF: When my dear friend and contributing writer Jacqueline Twa called me up and demanded to know if I’d ever made soufflés, I knew the gig was up. My cover as a ‘foodie’ was about to be blown apart. Why? The truth was that I had never made a soufflé.

In my mind, soufflés were only attempted by true professionals with a minimum of 500 years’ experience in a highly coveted culinary institution. Their reputation for collapsing immediately after removal from the oven is the main reason why I have never attempted them before. And who can blame me?! I figured they were stereotyped as hair pullingly difficult for a reason. So I stayed away.

Until now.

When Jax responded to my confession by saying that she had never made a soufflé either, I began to feel better. When she suggested the two of us get together and give these fickle custard and egg white concoctions a try, I felt way better.

We decided to make both a sweet and savoury soufflé. Savoury wise we opted for Ina Garten’s Blue Cheese Soufflé. It is fairly straightforward (am I allowed to use the word ‘straightforward’ when describing soufflés?!) but be warned there are lots of steps. We ended up rereading the recipe numerous times just to make sure we hadn’t gotten off track amid all of our culinary nattering. And let me tell ya staying focused was no small feat! When Jax and I get together and talk food it’s like watching a high intensity sport. In fact, a friend once told me she likes to just sit and observe the two of us in dialogue!

For our sweet soufflé, we ended up going the chocolate route with a recipe by Real Epicurean. Immediately we were struck by the fact that there were a lot less steps and ingredients involved compared to Ina’s recipe. Being complete food nerds, we quickly became excited to see if the results would be markedly different too.

Soufflés are made from two basic components, specifically a French crème pâtissière base (flavoured cream sauce) and egg whites beaten into a meringue. The base provides the flavour while the egg whites create that fabulous lift.

While a successful soufflé should emerge from the oven gloriously fluffy and puffy, it will fall after 5-10 minutes so don’t worry if this happens! Both our savoury and sweet experiments rose beautifully (check out our in oven picture…we were extremely proud of our babies!)

The Blue Cheese was definitely our favourite (not surprisingly our little taste testers preferred the chocolate). Greasing the ramekins and sprinkling with parmesan cheese prior to adding the soufflé batter, resulted in this amazing crust that was salty and crisp. The blue cheese tasted wonderful and in no way did its strong flavour dominate the dish. The texture itself was perfect; light as air and lovely and rich.

The chocolate soufflés were also a hit, although I felt there was something lacking in the flavour department that left it a little one dimensional. Some cinnamon or a sprinkle of sea salt would have been fantastic, or even a pinch of chili pepper for a little burst of heat. Being lactose intolerant, poor Jax had to leave the tasting part up to me and the girls.

All in all our cooking adventure was chalked up as a great success. Hmmm…wonder what our next culinary Kilimanjaro will involve. Suggestions?!

COOKBOOK REVIEW Seasons

By Donna Hay


Cookbook review written and photographed by contributing writer Helena McMurdo

 

Seasons is available for purchase through our online store or at local book stores. For more information on this book please visit HarperCollins

Australian food stylist, cookbook author and magazine editor, Donna Hay, brings together the best of Donna Hay Magazine in her book Seasons (published by HarperCollins, $39.99 CDN).

As the name suggests, this book is organized in terms of seasons and hits the mark perfectly when it comes to the foods we crave at particular times of the year. Fresh, bright flavours in spring, grilled seafood and fresh salads in summer, warm soups and comfort food as we move into autumn and winter. I have had this cookbook for nearly a year and still love to pick it up and browse through all of the culinary delights held within the pages.

My favourite things about this book include:

The photography – I don’t mind telling you that I first purchased this book because of the photography alone. Even if I had never ended up making a single recipe from this book I probably would have still been happy with my purchase! Honestly, I think I gained weight just by leafing through the pages. Outdoor settings featuring picnic and other outdoor meal scenarios are interspersed with beauty shots of dishes, styled with a rustic and authentic appeal. Although I know they have been crafted with the utmost of care and attention to detail, the pictures appear to give the reader the impression that real life is happening – granted a very beautiful, farmhouse, countryside, back to nature type ‘real life’ packed with exquisite kitchen towels, oodles of parchment paper, delightfully aged baking tins, messy spoons and perfect natural lighting.

The simplicity – The photography belies the simplicity of the dishes, with most recipes using just a few ingredients and for the most part are easy to understand and execute. The results are solid.

It’s adaptable – Many of the dishes are also spring boards for further inspiration. For example; I modified a fantastic goat’s cheese and fig tart recipe with some mushrooms and red peppers due to lack of figs. Using the same main ingredients and basic method, my efforts resulted in a whole new meal that was satisfying and delicious.

Desserts – I am not really a dessert person, at least I didn’t think I was until discovering this book. Seasons makes me want to make dessert all the time, and I fear I’m already feeling the results as I try to button my skinny jeans.

The photography – Did I mention the photography?!

There is not a lot of detail in the recipes themselves, but most of the dishes are so simple further explanation is hardly required. At 317 plus pages, the sheer volume of recipes in this cookbook will keep me busy for years to come.


© 2011 Helena McMurdo

CLICK HERE FOR RESULTS FROM RECIPE TESTS